At the new Florida Tech Center for Textiles named
in her honor, Ruth Funk stands surrounded by an
army of elegance, a couture corps of mannequins silently
making exquisite fashion statements.
Ruth’s army is clothed in the colorful, elegant coats of
her own design, the nucleus of “Coat Couture,” the Ruth
Funk Center for Textile Arts’ opening exhibition.
The textile arts center, neighboring Florida Tech’s
Evans Library, opened in August of 2009 to add a liberal
dash of artistic spice to the technical university.
“The much-anticipated center enriches the university’s
humanities programs in ways we never dared dream,” says
Florida Tech President Dr. Anthony J. Catanese.
With 3,000-square-feet of exhibition space, plus 2,500
more for collections storage, the center is indeed a jewel in
Florida Tech’s crown. It is one of a handful in the nation,
and the only center in Florida devoted to showcasing textiles
and their place in world culture.
The dynamo behind the center’s birth is Funk, artist, designer, teacher,
collector, author and philanthropist. Although well into her ninth decade,
Ruth radiates the exuberance of youth.
“Forget octogenarian; think paragon. Ruth Funk, creator and collector,
stitches with one hand while shaking the world with the other,” noted world
renowned textile designer Jack Lenor Larsen in his foreword to “Cloth and
Culture,” Funk’s new, and intoxicatingly handsome, book about her unique
couture creations.
August of 2009 was a memorable month for Ruth, for in that month not
only did the textiles center open, but her coffee table book hit the shelves. The
book mesmerizes readers with a journey through 25 years of Funk’s brilliant
handcrafted garments and fiber art.
This 280-page, 400-color-image love poem to textile arts features the
highly detailed jackets, evening coats and jewelry that Ruth handcrafted from
rare and recycled textiles she discovered in her travels and forays into antique
and interior design shops.
“Every garment tells a story” is Ruth’s
working mantra, one that is repeated in all
of her creations.
Like her wearable designs, Ruth’s life
has been a mixture of serendipity combined
with judicious choices.
As a child growing up in Texas, she
would sew clothes for her dolls, but as an
adult, her passion for textiles remained dormant
as Ruth pursued several careers.
“I didn’t have time to sew, but I was
always conscious of fabric,” she says.
After earning her master’s in fine arts
from Texas Woman’s University, she opted
for an extra year of studies at Milwaukee-
Downer College in order to become a registered
occupational therapist.
“This profession gave me an excellent
exposure to many of the handcrafts and
discovery of how things are made,” explains
Ruth in the catalog for her “Fashion, Fun
and Fantasy,” an exhibition of her work at
the Maitland Art Center.
A large chunk of her adult life was spent
in New York City, with travels throughout
Europe, Asia and Africa. During a summer
in Provincetown, Massachusetts, Ruth studied with abstract expressionist Hans Hoffman. Another summer,
she was off to Nantucket to study silk-screen and block printing on
fabrics.
During the 1960s, Ruth concentrated on jewelry design. Her
acumen with silver served her later in life, when she designed jewelry
to coordinate with her textile art.
For three years, Ruth was the director of education at the
Albany Institute of History and Art and part owner of Albany’s
327, a contemporary art gallery. At Russell Sage College in upstate
New York, she taught in the fine arts department and was director
of the school’s interior design program.
It was only after retirement in Florida, however, that Ruth
finally reconnected with her childhood passion for cloth.
“I came to Florida dragging my feet,” says Ruth.
“My husband was a golfer. I told him that anywhere we moved
would have to have an art museum and a symphony.”
In Brevard, she found the cultural camaraderie she craved,
as well as the time to start sewing again. There was never a grand
master plan. Art happened.
“I just started putting things together,” says Ruth. Friends at
Brevard Art Museum took notice.
“As I started making more clothes, friends started asking me
to do fashion shows,” says Ruth.
As canvas, Ruth primarily relies on the square-cut loose-fitting
pattern of kimono legend and on the ingeniously simple Othello
coat pattern.
From these basic shapes, she begins to sculpt in cloth, using
as a guide the intuition she has honed through decades of design
experience.
“You have to make it go together, whether it’s a coat or a
room,” says Ruth.
“Each piece has its own life.” Textiles’ tactile quality serves as
springboard for the designs.
“Your first response to textiles is that you want to touch
them,” says Ruth. “I usually start a piece because I love a particular
fabric.”
In a thrift shop, Ruth happened upon a delicious pink and
black Thai silk dress. Despite the fact that the dress was priced at
just three dollars, Ruth knew there was plenty of pedigree in the
silk. The fabric had been designed by Jim Thompson, who singlehandedly
revived the silk cottage industry.
Ruth “recycled” the beautiful fabric into a jacket, embellishing
it with ribbons, rosettes and beads and even the “frogs” from
the original dress.
For her “William Morris” jacket, Ruth began with a set of
postcards a friend brought as souvenir from the Victoria & Albert
Museum. Eager to pay homage to the great 19th century designer,
Ruth embarked on a fanciful coat that would incorporate the patterns
on the cards.
“At the time, you couldn’t get any William Morris fabric, so
I had to transfer them all onto cloth,” she says. “I worked all summer just transferring.”
The thoroughly British patterns, outlined quilt-style by a “trellis” of blue, are enhanced
by vines of rattail, the polyester braiding popular in the 80s and 90s, and a burst of silk
leaves given to her by the late Barbara Ann Barber, a Melbourne interior designer. Hundreds
of French knots are the tiny English flowers that spill across the cloth.
“It makes for a unifying statement,” says Ruth.
A scrap of fabric can spark a dramatic design. African mud cloth, upholstery fabric,
Chinese silks, Belgian lace and Ikat fabric are embellished with shells, coins, earrings
or any other object Ruth feels blend in harmony. Friends such as stained-glass artist
Vera Sattler, who provided the glass drops for one of the coats, keep Ruth well-supplied
with a myriad of baubles.
“I’m not a purist,” she says. “I put together anything that works.”
After attending Florida Tech’s “Dreamweavers” textiles exhibit in 2003, Ruth
became interested in donating her collection of textiles, books and journals to the
school, together with a gift of $1.25 million to house the collection.
“It is my dream come true to have a center for world
textile education and special exhibitions,” says Ruth.
“My vision is to elevate textiles as an art form to be
enjoyed and appreciated for generations to come.”
The Ruth Funk Center for Textile Arts’ collection
includes handmade textiles, garments and accessories from
Africa, Central Asia, China, India, Japan and the Americas.
Rotating exhibitions focus on the collection’s artistic, technical
and cultural significance.
The Center is open from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Tuesdays
and Saturdays. Admission is free. For more information, call
674-8313 or visit http://textiles.fit.edu.
“Cloth and Culture” is available at the Ruth Funk Center
for Textile Arts and at bookstores everywhere.