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It seems the redesign of Djon Pepaj's flagship restaurant, now called Djon's Steak and Lobster House, conveys truth to the adage, "what's old is new again."

The décor is blended in a way that feels fresh, but not out-of- the-box new. Dark wood floors are also new, but distressed enough to look like they might have graced the original building - the First Beaujean House, a historical landmark built in 1886 that has served as everything from private residence to post office, from inn to an eatery called Poor Richards.

Inside, only a few original historic touches remain. The old brick fireplace now fronts a cream leather-tufted couch and zebra-striped lounge chair in a luxurious sitting area between the bar and dining areas. Also, tin tiles still line the roof of the bar, as does some original woodwork in the staircase and the bar area.

Pepaj opened this restaurant in late 1993 after leaving an engineering career with Northrop Grumman. He says he knew the area needed a great upscale restaurant, and he was confident - after working his way through college in New York City restaurants and traveling to or living in cosmopolitan cities with high food expectations - that he could pull it off.

"Why not? I knew the vibe that was missing," he recalls. "I knew I could do it, so . . . I followed my instincts."

Thus was born Djon's Chophouse.

Those same instincts later led to the creation of two other Pepaj dining establishments in Indialantic: City Tropics, which opened in 2002, and Andiamo's Café and Bar Italiano in 2005. Sand Bar, the eagerly anticipated beachfront bar at the corner of Ocean and Oak avenues in Melbourne Beach, is scheduled to open in 2009.

By the late 1990s, Djon's Chophouse had gained attention among locals and business travelers as a hot spot. The décor was not a theme so much as an idea that the design must function in conjunction with the attitude of the old house. It offered simple dining arrangements atop creaky wooden floors, a wraparound bar that afforded microviews of the Indian River Lagoon, and an outdoor patio with slab concrete floors for parties and weddings.

Although the original renovation reorganized much of the historic building, Papaj felt it was time to bring it up to his higher design standards. He knew he could elevate the feel of his Melbourne Beach restaurant to a level where the ambience was as good as Europe or a big American city.

When the restaurateur decided it was time for design renovations at the renamed Djon's Steak and Lobster House, he once more relied on his instincts.

For inspiration, Pepaj turned to his travels around Europe, especially Paris and the south of France, and throughout the U.S. He ended up focusing on trying to capture the ambience of one of his favorite places, Miami's South Beach.

"I love the easy feel of South Beach; there's so much life and laughter there," he says. "So many places there have that. I wanted to bring that here, too."

In February 2007, Pepaj and wife Melinda started putting the pieces together to fashion a new dress for his "baby." The couple chose all the patterns, fabrics, furniture and design pieces together.

"We knew the look we wanted and found it much easier to work directly with the suppliers to create this feel," Pepaj says. The coming out party was in November.

Using computer-aided design programs, layouts were created, rejected, repurposed and redrawn for the main dining room and entry points. A lighting system was designed to float below the roof in soft S-patterns that provide enough light for diners to see, but not too much to flood out the ambience.

Wall paint was mixed and textured to create an Old-World feel, though it's so demure you have to be within inches to notice the total effect. Permanent floral displays showcase tropical selections in bright greens and reds.

A large circular dining area for eight was created in the middle of the main dining room, ensconced in wraparound sheer curtain panels that buffer parties from nearby patrons. The large circular table is an onyx wood that contrasts sharply with the other crimson and-cream- topped linen. Parsons chairs are made of cream-tufted leather.

Helping reinforce the South-Beach feel, red, gold and cream panels hang from facing walls and are backed by sheer panels with a gold curlicue design. Ambient ethnic music floats in from well-hidden speakers.

In the center of the dining room, a massive chandelier made of Swarovski crystal beads draws the eye upward. The shimmering and shining glints of beads are reminiscent of a breath let go during a deep-sea ascent - liberating and somehow lightening.

Another highlight, albeit less public, is the restaurant's bathrooms. They are hyper modern with infinity sinks and smoked-glass stall doors that feel evocative and protective at the same time.

"I love these bathrooms," Pepaj says. "We had great fun incorporating the functional needs with our design ideas."

For a decidedly more casual experience, alfresco dining is found outside the main entrance and to the back of the main dining area. A second-story patio overlooking Ryckman Park and the river seats a small contingent of those smart enough to reserve the space ahead of time.

In the front patio area, there are a few scattered crimson umbrella shades and spectacular views of the Indian River Lagoon.

The Red Shoe Bar, with dark panels, lipstick art (literally), red and zebra-patterned seating and dark wood accents, might offer the area's sexiest sit-down. This is a place to linger over a custom-crafted martini or an appetizer, such as crispy fried Calamari with marinara sauce or a Seafood Crepe.

Dining options abound with simple preparations of top-of-the-line cuts of beef, fish and chicken. The food reflects the design idea - use the best and dress it up to enhance flavors and augment presentation. The new menu brims with beef and choice selections of seafood, including live Maine lobster.

In February, another option was added to accommodate patrons: midday meals. Salads, sandwiches and the signature Lobster Bisque have helped draw consistent weekday crowds.

"We did not expect such a strong response so quickly, but we've seen a steady business," Pepaj says, adding:

"We set out to create a certain vibe here, to bring people together in the European way to enjoy each other with excellent food and wines and good service. I know people enjoy their experiences here, and that makes everything worthwhile."

Djon’s Steak and Lobster House has been recognized by the prestigious restaurant rating system, Zagat, and by Wine Spectator Magazine for its 5,000-bottle selection. Located at 522 Ocean Ave., Melbourne Beach, the restaurant serves lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday and dinner from 5 p.m. until closing Monday through Sunday. For more information or to make a reservation (suggested), call 722-2737. Online at www.djons.com.



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